New Lao movie: Huk Aum Lum premiered at ITECC

It was called the press conference, but was actually the premiere already: Huk Aum Lum ist the second feature film produced by Lao New Wave Cinema (co-produced with Hemon Studio), and will be in the cinema from November 17th on (ITECC, of course). For Director Phanumad Disattha (Ton) it is his first feature film, and to make the task even more difficult, he also wrote the script.

Ton studied in Thailand and America, and he knows the business. Former short movies showed already his talent as a director, and with Huk Am Lum he could prove that he is in the premier league in Asia. The story itself caters the taste of a young asian audience, in particular the Lao people. It is a love story, a comedy, sometimes a bit confusing, sometimes a bit long, but in the end everything is fine. It looked a bit that after the huge success of the controversial and on the edge of censorship production At The Horizon Lao Wave Cinema tried to play nice with the authorities with including a lot of Lao culture (aka stereotypes) from almsgiving to Baci ceremonies. At least they didn't travel to Luang Prabang. Also, the stereotype of the city girl they knows nothing about the countryside and the singer who desperately wants back to his hometown is a bit too political correct. But this is a personal taste. The audience at the premier laughed about the story, and the well placed and written jokes make it easy to watch (the film has English subtitles, by the way.) What is more important is Tons achievement as a director. Huk Aum Lum is a highly professional production, from the equipment used to the way it was edited. Even sound, a huge problem with most productions, is well recorded. Credits also go to the director of photography, who made beautiful pictures - a piece of art actually. What is always a challenge in Laos is to find actors. There is no school for acting, so you have to rely either on singers or on amateurs. Huk Aum Lum did both: The main characters do have experience with audience and cameras, since they are singers: Sack of Cells, Alee from “Shawty”, Jear Pacific, and DJ Kaew Kun. But they showed, and this is exceptional, that they are great actors as well. In particular Sack and Jear Pacific did a great job. To include the people in the village were the movie was shot was not only a good idea, it also gave the film some authenticity, without disturbing it. All amateurs played surprisingly well. Congrats to all of them. So, since there are not many Lao movies with English subtitles, go to ITECC and watch the movie. It is nice entertainment, and you may learn something more about the country and its people. Official teaser below:

Top 5 coffee shops in Vientiane

Coffee shops are essential for big cities this days, and even a small capital like Vientiane. So here is a list of the best 5 coffee shops in the city. It is based on my experience (I basically live in coffee shops) and these factors: Coffee quality, service, opening hours, food, wifi, location. Best coffee shops in Vientiane:

  1. JOMA Cafe Ponthan Not only has Joma the most experience in Vientiane (they are here for 12 years already), what makes them outstanding is the fact that they always keep the quality of food and service at the same level. Although Joma Ponthan is not in downtown, it is less crowded, has more seats and parking as well as a kids play room. Opens early at 7am, closing 9pm.

2. Cafe Nomad Located close to the Thai embassy, this little gem has everything you need: Good coffee, delicious paninis, free and fast wifi. Opening 9.30am, every day.

3. Benoni Cafe They do have the best coffee in town, and this place is the number one to go for lunch. Breakfast isn't really available, and they open late at 10am. Parking is difficult, staff doesn't speak English well enough (but the owner do), and Wifi is unreliable. Located in the heart of Vientiane, on Setthathirat road, next to Joma.

 4. Baan Tonmali Cake Cafe Not too many people know this place since it isn't located in downtown. But if you pass by Lao-Top College then you will find this coffee oasis on the right. It got it's ranking because of the nice decoration, the cheap and delicious lunch (Lao food), the best chocolate cake in town and the fact, that it is the place where young Lao filmmakers come together. Opens at 8am, close at 6pm.

5. Espresso Cafe Get a bit of a New York coffee shop feeling in this little coffe shop, located next to the cultural hall Not many seats available, but the coffee is outstanding, the crossant the best in town, and wifi is free and fast. Open early at 8am, closed on Sunday.

Good morning from Vientiane

Good morning from Vientiane, a photo by thomaswanhoff on Flickr.

Some pictures, impressions and links from ASEM 9

Vientiane is occupied by foreign countries, but this time for good: 60 something leaders (or their delegates) gathering in Laos capital for the ASEM 9 summit. Not much outcome is expected, since the size is too big for a workshop meeting, but at least some bilateral talks might be successful here and there. Also, the Europeans want to convince their Chinese and some other major Asian business partners that everything is under control in Europe. So, the mainstream story reads like that:

Dozens of European and Asian leaders gathered in impoverished Laos on Monday for a major summit dominated by the eurozone debt crisis and growing territorial tensions in the region. Top European officials including French President Francois Hollande and Italian Prime Minister Mario Monti were due to spearhead efforts to reassure Asia that the long-running eurozone crisis is finally coming under control. The diplomatic offensive is seen as a sign of the growing importance that debt-laden Europe places on Asia's fast-growing economies, and its desire to counter increased US engagement in the region.

Then, there is some concern about the venue (or better the place where the leaders are supposed to sleep. And there are the side stories, like Austria's State Secretary of Finance Andreas Schieder (turns his back to the street in the picture, but yes, it's him) who decided to stop his convoy right in front of the Joma Cafe to get - a coffee. Police was a bit surprised since they were told parking isn't allowed at Setthathirat road, but nobody was thinking about if this rule applies to the delegates as well.

The Russian Prime Minister Medvedev arrived in his own bullet proof limousine (a quite old one, actually), while the German foreign Minister Westerwelle came in a regular Mercedes (I think all this Mercedes purchased for the summit aren't bullet proof at all). Yinluck from Thailand came quite early, while some Finish delegates were seen cruising around for quite a while. What is a big surprise so far is the work of the traffic police: Haven't seen traffic going so smooth like in this days. The fact that school are closed and many government officials are working for the summit eases the traffic already, but even the rehearsals done last week had a pretty good outcome. So Kudos this time for the Lao Traffic police. The fact that we have a curfew from 10pm on is something I can handle. There isn't nothing to after 10pm anyway, in particular Monday and Tuesday. (Not that I think there is a vibrant nightlife on weekends). So as proud the Lao people are these days because of the summit, the even more quiet is the city, it is actually quite nice again to sit outside in the Benoni Cafe without having an hourlong traffic jam in front of you. More links about the summit: http://www.asem9.la/ (Official Website) Press release from the European Union Wikipedia about ASEM Official Theme Song, in Lao, no subtitles, so much about the international spirit (Video)

Modern Laos: Sinh and hot pants

Modern Laos: Sinh and hot pants, a photo by thomaswanhoff on Flickr.

Took this picture this morning. It actually shows quite good the current situation in Laos. The family that lives in the house I took the picture is poor.

Naked Espresso - new coffee shop in Vientiane

Coffee shops are just great: First, you get coffee there, something I need at least 3 times a day.

Then, since Starbucks replaced the Vienna style Cafe, it is also a cozy place to spend some time. With Benoni, Tonmali Cake, Espresso Cafe and Friends de Cafe we already have some nice, individually designed places, and now we have a new kid in town.

Naked Espresso is located at Dongpalan Street, not far from the roundabout. Just pass by the flower shops and then it is on the right side.

It offers the usual suspects from Latte to Americano, while its signature dish is Totally Naked - a multiple shots iced coffee drink.

They also offer some food, from scambled eggs, ham and cheese sandwich to Bruschetta, Fettuccini Meatballs and Roasted Atlantic Samlon with mashed potatoes. Homemade cakes are available as well.

Prices are quite fair, and the coffee (they have their own supplier) is in the same league as Benoni. A relief for expat is the fact that the owner Ariya speaks fluent English.

Opening hours are Tuesday to Sunday from 8am to 7pm.

Vientiane on fire

I complained before, and I will not rest to rant about these fires in Vientiane. The Lao capital is already a quite dusty and dirty city, but the fires (mainly organic waste like leafs, but always mixed with some plastic parts) make it even worst. Although there is a garbage collection service, people burn like crazy. Why? Because they always did it.

And here comes one of the biggest problems Laos is facing: the refusal of change. People still like to excuse themselfs with referring to Lao tradition, culture and education. Change is only possible if there are huge benefits. Like having a mobile phone - people had no problem at all to switch to a mobile phone from landlines in short time. Or using a motobike instead of a buffalo.
Not burning trash means paying for garbage collection (what in the city they have to do anyway), but also to get rid of it in a different way.

First, for Lao people isn't a different way available. At least in their mind (beside a undeveloped neighboring plot that can be turned instantly into a waste dump site).

Composting? Not known, and more important, not taught. And there again is the education system. In some textbook it is actually taught not to burn your organic waste, but childs cant cope with their parents opinions when it comes to changes.

So change in education doesn't mean writing something nice in the textpooks of primary school students. Education - in particular in developing countries - needs to be done in all segments of society.

A government that is able to give security advice for important events like the ASEM summit down to village level has already the tool and channels for communication.

If for example the village could fine those who start fires and the fine is later used for improvments everyone on the village is benefiting from, there would be an incentive to report violations.

But maybe only when the last Laotion died of cancer or respiratory diseases, people will understand that not every tradition is something you want to keep.